Paper Mache Jewelry Tray Tutorial

Hey!  It’s Missy from Missy Dear again!  For awhile now I’ve been wanting to try this project.  I’ve needed a little tray for my jewelry but hadn’t been able to find something I liked.


I have an oval casserole dish that was the right shape, but it was too chunky and the sides were a little taller than I’d like.  So I thought, “Hey, I can just use that for a form and make my own.”  So that’s what I did. And I thought I’d make a great little paper mache jewelry tray tutorial for you all to join the fun :).


First I gathered up my supplies:
-dish or other object to use as form
-white glue (I got mine at the Dollar store)
-strips of paper (computer paper will give it a little more strength and make it easier to paint than newspaper will)
-craft paint and brushes
-enamel clear coat spray
-plastic wrap (not pictured)

First things first, you need to lay a piece of plastic wrap in whatever you’re using as your form.  This will not only keep your project from permanently gluing itself to the dish, but it will also make getting it out way easier.  Now you’re ready to paper mache.

Paper mache tray process

If you’ve never done paper mache before it’s a fairly simple process.  You just coat the strip of paper in a mixture of the white glue and water (I dipped it into a bowl and squeezed off the excess with my fingers).  The paste I made was 3 parts glue to 1 part water.  Once the strip of paper is coated in the paste you just layer it into the dish.

One thing I did that I think really helped is that I alternated the way I laid the strips.  So on the first layer I did them horizontal to the long sides of the dish, on the next layer I did them vertical, and on the third layer I did them diagonal. I repeated each of those layers twice (for a total of 6 layers) then I let it sit for about 2 hours while I took my daughter to T-ball practice (for the record, a bunch of 5 yr olds playing t-ball is pretty adorable).  Once I was home I did about 10-15 more layers, alternating the direction of the strips with each layer.

Now the longest part of the process – the drying.

Paper Mache Tray drying steps

First I let it sit on the form for a few hours (a).  Then I took it out of the form and peeled the plastic wrap off the sides and let it dry for a few more hours (b).  Finally I took if off the plastic, flipped it upside down and “hung” it from some paint bottles to let it dry over night (c).

Here’s another tip I learned the hard way – use an even number of paint bottles.  I only had one on one side and two on the other so it dried with a little warp in it.  I had to leave it the whole next day with something heavy in it to try to get the warp to straighten out, which only helped a little.

Paper Mache Tray painting

This next step was the one that required the most brute force – trimming the sides.  In wanting the tray to be sturdy enough, I had used a lot of layers.  Which worked great, it is very strong.  However, I had the hardest time trimming it down.  I tried every pair of scissors in the house – including some wire cutters and a little hack saw.  I discovered that my kitchen shears worked the best, but left a pretty jagged edge.  Nothing a little sanding couldn’t fix.

Then just paint, let that dry, then spray with a clear coat.  I chose an enamel clear coat because I was going for that really high gloss look.


And there you have it, a gorgeous little jewelry tray you made all by yourself.  Maybe now that all my jewelry is laid out where I can see it I might wear it more often.

What do you think?  Is it something you might want to make for yourself too?


Well, if you do make one remember to let me know about it!  I really would love to see it.  You can find me pretty much anywhere, but here are some handy dandy links just in case :)

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Cable Knit Beanie pattern with earflaps- child

I am SO excited about this pattern! I haven’t been inspired in awhile for a knit or crochet pattern so when I started getting an idea for this I couldn’t put my needles down until I got it right! I hope you like it as much as I do! I’m working on a few different sizes, baby and infant, for you guys too!


I love cables, earflaps and squared off beanies so this pattern includes all of them. The big one for me is I usually start my knit beanies bottom up, but because I wanted to add earflaps to this I needed to start top down. The next question, do you make it flat then do a seam down the sides? or work it in the round the seam the top.


I decided to work in the round and seam the top. But then the question is how do you seam it? just simply stitch it together? NOT ME!!! I like trying to make it as seamless as I can, so I decided to learn the kitcheneer stitch! I love it, but it isn’t perfect (the pattern throws it off, but overall I’m really happy with it.


The kitcheneer stitch is different than the three needle bind off but both would work. The three needle bind off leaves a seam on the inside of your work, while the kitcheneer stitch leaves it seamless (for the most part, the pattern does jiggle over a bit), a nice and smooth inside!


You can end it with a single crochet around, but I felt it bulked it up a bit (I made like 4 hats perfecting this, one had the crochet around), it also curled the ears out a bit. So I didn’t do it. I also considered adding short braids to the bottoms, but I didn’t want to make it too busy.


The baby did NOT like it, he has decided he doesn’t want to model for me anymore, BUT Princess LOVED IT!!!!! And the same hat fit them both!! Crazy how close in head size toddlers and kids are, huh? I might just have to come up with an adult pattern too, I might need one for next winter, maybe a bright pink?


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Cable Knit Beanie with earflaps

Chunky yarn
size 10 double pointed needles
6.5 mm crochet hook
cable needle

K- Knit
P- Purl
CB4 – Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in BACK, k2, then k2 from cable needle
CF4 – Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT, k2, then k2 from cable needle
CB6 – Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in BACK, k3, then k3 from cable needle
CF6 – Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in FRONT, k3, then k3 from cable needle
K2tog – insert the right needle into two stitches and knit two together (decrease)
SSK – slip one knitwise, slip another knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit (decrease)
K3tog – insert the right neede into three sitches and knit three together (decrease)
SSSK – slip one knitwise, slip another knitwise, slip a third knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit (decrease)
Provisional cast on – crochet a chain, then put your starting needle through the back loops to start your project, then later taking out the chain so you have open loops to knit the other way (usually knitting together)
kitcheneer or three needle cast off – for binding off the top

10 stitches per 2 inches


We’re going to start with the provisional cast on:
crochet chain 58, join in a circle, tie off
weave knitting needle through back loops all the way around
spread your stitches among 3-4 needles

Row 1 – [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 2 – [K3, (CF6) twice] P2, K1, P2, CB4, P2, CF4, P2, K1, P2, [K3, (CF6) twice] P2, K1, P2, CB4, P2, CF4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 3 – [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 4 – [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 5 – [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 6 – [(CB6) twice, K3] P2, K1, P2, CB4, P2, CF4, P2, K1, P2, [(CB6) twice, K3] P2, K1, P2, CB4, P2, CF4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 7 – [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, (70)
Row 8 – [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, [K15], P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2, (70)

Repeat rows 1- 8 four times (5 repeats altogether) or until length desired. End on a row 3 or 7.


Row 40 (or whatever you end on) – cast off 15, P2, K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, cast off 21, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, P2,

first ear flap
yarn still attached – switching to rows, not rounds
(wrong side) row 1 – K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P4, K2, (17)
row 2 – P2, CB4, P2, CF4, P2, K1, P2, (17)
row 3 – K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P4, K2, (17)
row 4 – K1, K2tog, K3, P2, K4, P2, SSK, K1 (15)
row 5 – P2, K2, P4, K2, P5 (15)
row 6 – K1, K2tog, K2, P2, CF4, P1, SSK, K1 (13)
row 7 – P2, K1, P4, K2, P4 (13)
row 8 – K1, k2tog, K1, P2, K4, SSK, K1 (11)
row 9 – P6, K2, P3 (11)
row 10 – K1, K2tog, P2, K3, SSK, K1 (9)
row 11 – P5, K2, P2 (9)
row 12 – K1, K2tog, SSSK (3), SSK K1, casting off while you go,
fasten off

second ear flap
add yarn
(wrong side) row 1 – K2, P4, K2, P4, K2, P1, K2 (17)
row 2 – P2, K1, P2, CB4, P2, CF4, P2 (17)
row 3 – K2, P4, K2, P4, K2, P1, K2 (17)
row 4 – K1, K2tog, P2, K4, P2, K3, SSK, K1 (15)
row 5 – P5, K2, P4, K2, P2 (15)
row 6 – K1, K2tog, P1, CB4, P2, K2, SSK, K1 (13)
row 7 – P4, K2, P4, K1, P2 (13)
row 8 – K1, k2tog, K4, P2, K1, SSK, K1 (11)
row 9 – P3, K2, P6 (11)
row 10 – K1 K2tog, K3, P2, SSK, K1 (9)
row 11 – P2, K2, P5 (9)
row 12 – K1 K2tog K1 SSK K1 (5)
row 13 – P5 (5)
row 14 – K1 K2tog, K3tog, SSK, K1, casting off while you go
fasten off


To close the top you can use the three needle bind off (remember to work a three needle bind off RIGHT sides together) or the kitcheneer stitch (WRONG sides together)

Take apart the knot holding the crochet chain in a circle, then take apart that starting knot. Slowly pull out the chain (from the starting side), while doing that weave your knitting needles into the loops that are left when you pull the chain out

Even out the stitches onto two needles, 35 stitches on each. Make sure to center your pattern on each needle.

Kitcheneer stitch:
(see a great video on kitcheneer stitch with knit and pearl here)
Wrong sides together, Right sides out
Use a long piece of yarn, about 3 times longer than the width of the hat, with a tapestry needle to weave together.

Front Needle: go into stitch purlwise (pull through leaving a small tail)
Back Needle: go into stitch knitwise (pull tight)

Leading to Knit stitches:
FN: go into stitch knitwise, pull that stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise
BN: go into stitch purlwise, pull that stitch off needle, go into next stitch knitwise

Leading to Purl stitches:
FN: go into stitch knitwise, pull that stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise
BN: go into stitch knitwise, pull that stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise

Work your way across. Weave in all your ends and your ready to go!


Sailor’s Knot Crochet Belt

Hello Topsy Turvy readers! I am so excited to have the opportunity to share crochet patterns with you each month! I blog over at Love City where I write about things that I love most (my boys, crochet, and motherhood). You can also learn more on my about me page!

For a while now, I have been wanting to share some crochet tutorials that focused on basic stitches. I want to help beginners learn each crochet stitch, pattern by pattern, gradually increasing in difficulty, until they feel like experts! My monthly contribution here on I’m Topsy Turvy seems like the perfect platform for such a series!

If you have been itching to learn crochet, but feel a little bit intimidated, these tutorials are made just for you! There’s no need to feel overwhelmed by intricate charts and symbols. We are going to make some fabulous projects, one stitch at a time!

For any of you crochet experts out there, never fear! These projects are going to be so fun and unique and I know that you will love them!

So let’s get started!


I am loving anything “nautical” right now, so I thought it would be fun to try out my knot tying skills with this sailor’s knot crochet belt!



Supplies you’ll need:

1 skein bulky or super bulky weight yarn

(I used Lion Brand’s Hometown USA in )

Size L crochet hook


Large eye sewing needle

Measuring tape


With this belt, the only stitches you need to know are Chain and Single Crochet.

Chain (ch)- Fasten on with a slip stitch. Yarn over hook and pull through the loop that is on the hook. A chain stitch will create a long, continuous strand of interlocking loops.

Single Crochet (sc)- Place hook into stitch. Yarn over hook and pull back up through stitch. Yarn over hook again and pull hook through the two loops on the hook. One loop should remain on the hook when completed.

Abbreviations to know:

st- stitch

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

Make two:

1. With measuring tape, loosely measure your waist. Add 1/2 to 1 inch to that measurement.

2. Ch until strand matches your measurement from step 1 in length.


3. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in each remaining st.

4. Fasten off, leaving a 5 inch tail.


5. On a flat surface, take the end of each strand and tape them down. With one strand, tape the end with no tail. With the other strand, tape the end that has the 5 inch tail.

6. Create your sailor’s knot by following these simple steps:


7. Attach the sewing needle to one 5 inch tail and sew to the corresponding tail on the other side (as shown in block 9 above). Do the same with the other two tails. Finish off and weave in loose ends!

8. Put on your belt and admire your handiwork!


If you’re a little stuck, and need more visual instruction on how to tie the sailor’s knot, I made a fun little instructional video for you! Stop by my blog, Love City, today and check it out! I’m also sharing a nautical themed embroidery hoop that sits so cutely in my kid’s bathroom!

I plan on wearing my belt over some of my favorite spring dresses! I’m already dreaming of a beach side, sunset stroll with my sunhat, cute belt, and dress flowing in the breeze.

How will you wear yours? What color will you choose?

More from Love City

crochet-wrap-sweater-pattern mary-jane-baby-bootie-tutorial braided-crochet-headband-tutorial

Wrap Sweater  |  Mary Jane Baby Booties  |  Braided Headband

Braided & Beaded Bracelet

How’s that for some awesome alliteration?

Hey there!  I’m Missy from Missy Dear and I’m so excited to be the craft contributor here at I’m Topsy Turvy!  I’ve long admired Ashlee and I’ve had such fun getting to know the other ladies a little over the last week or so.

Braided & Beaded Bracelet

We’ve been having some crazy weather here in North Carolina the past few weeks.  It’s resulted in 8 snow days since January 1st which means there’s a lot of time that I need to fill with projects for my daughter and niece.  They love to dress up and get “all fancy” so I decided that maybe an easy jewelry project was in order.  And this simple Braided & Beaded Bracelet was just the thing.

This project was perfect for my 11 year old niece, but 5 year old Abi had a much better time watching.  It’s pretty simple as long as you can do a little basic braiding.

Bead & Braid

For supplies you will need:

Bracelet Findings – I used the circle and post kind.
Thread – I used embroidery floss since I had it on hand, but I would suggest something sturdier, like waxed thread. It would make the beading much easier.
Beads – I used some silver glass seed beads.

Now for the fun part.

First let me apologize for the pictures if they’re not very clear on what I’m doing.  One thing I realized while doing this project is that trying to take pictures of a project that really works best while using two hands can be a little tricky.  I’m not sure why I didn’t think to just take pictures of my niece doing it.  I blame in on my prego brain.


1 – Thread whatever you decided to use as the string onto the finding.  I found that instead of tying it on, threading it through and doubling it over was the better option.  That way you don’t have a bulky knot, and it makes the bracelet a little thicker.  And here’s a tip: taping it to the table top helps A TON! Braid about a third of the finished length of the bracelet.  In my case I was making a 6 inch bracelet for Abi.  So, this first braided section was 2 inches long.


2 – Once you’ve reached the desired length add a bead to the outside thread that will next be going to the middle.  When you cross it over to the middle, make sure that the thread coming over to take it’s place stays under the bead to hold it up.  If it slips to the top of the bead then the braid will just get longer and the bead will get pushed down the bracelet. Does that make sense?


3 – Just keep braiding like normal, only adding a bead to the outside threads after every cross over.  In this picture you can see a little more clearly what I mean by keeping the middle thread under the bead when you cross it over. Another tip: Try to keep your finger behind the beads at all times.  I moved them for the sake of the pictures but it will save you so much frustration if you always have the beads held.  If you don’t the bracelet starts to spin and the beads start kind of moving around.  No bueno.


4 – Continue the beaded braid until you’ve done another third of the length (in my case, another 2 inches).  Once you reach that length just finish out the bracelet with a normal braid like in the beginning.


5 – Then just tie it onto the post.  To keep it a little more secure from coming undone I dabbed a little bit of hot glue around the knot.  I’ve never done that before but it sounded like a good idea so I thought I’d give it a try.  I’ll let you know how it works out.

Beaded Braid

And there you have it!  Have you ever tried your hand at a fun DIY jewelry project?  How did it turn out?

Follow along on my blog or social media and make sure you tag me if you make yourself one of these great bracelets!  I’d love to see it!!

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Saint Patrick’s Day Party Favors

Hello Im Topsy Turvy readers! I’m Mel from So Festive! and I’m so excited to be a new party and holiday contributor here on the first Wednesday of every month. I love any excuse to celebrate, big or small. And I’m going to share simple ideas to make your holidays, parties, and life a bit more festive.

Do you celebrate Saint Patrick’s Day? I think it’s one of those holidays that either is a big deal or isn’t for most people. We wear green, have a visit from the Little Leprechaun, and have a green dinner.

Regardless of you celebrate, here’s 2 simple Saint Patrick Day party favors you can make in a flash.


Here’s what you’ll need to make the Saint Patrick’s Day pot of gold. Who doesn’t love gold. Or chocolate?


To make your pot of gold:

1. Spray the outside of a baby food jar black and let completely dry. (About 20 minutes).

2. Fill the jar completely with gold chocolate coins, or stuff it with crinkle gift wrap shred like this:


3. Then fill with chocolate coins and tie with a piece of ribbon to give it a nice finish.


To make the shamrock place setting, you’ll need: 


And here’s how you do it:


If you aren’t having a dinner party, you could still have kids make these for an afternoon craft. The possibilities are endless!

little-leprechaun-gifts pot-of-gold

See what the Little Leprachaun brought us last year over on my site. There’s also another easy Saint Patrick Day Pot of Gold Idea that you might like.

Hope you have a festive Saint Patrick’s Day!

Christmas Rocking Moose with Sharpies

This post is part of a social shopper marketing insight campaign with Pollinate Media Group™ and Sharpie, but all my opinions are my own. #pmedia #StaplesSharpie

When the chance came up to make a Christmas project with Sharpie’s I was so inspired!  When I was shopping for Sharpies at Staples they were having a great sale so I actually grabbed about 6 packs!  I got a 12 pack or rainbow for $6 and the metallic 4 packs for $5 and a few more!! You’ll be seeing more Sharpie projects soon!


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